For four years, barbecue enthusiasts have eagerly awaited Texas Monthly’s next list of the state’s Best 50 BBQ Joints. During the spring and summer, the magazine deployed 32 editorial staffers and three freelancers to weigh in on barbecue served at 411 barbecue joints across our vast 268,596-square-mile state. We are happy to report that, according to the authority on all things Texan, Crossroads residents who keep tabs on good sources of barbecue are in luck.
One of the Best 50 BBQ Joints selected by the magazine’s experienced tasters fires up its pits from before dawn until after dusk six days a week in Port Lavaca. Lupe and Christine Nevarez founded LaVaca BBQ in the quaint coastal town in 2019. Their daughter, Kelli Nevarez, who left her post as a first-grade teacher at an elementary school, puts her chops — earned competing with family in barbecue competitions throughout the years — to good use as resident pitmaster.
In April 2021, LaVaca BBQ added a location in Bay City, which serves barbecue on Saturdays and caters daily. With its newfound fame among barbecue’s best, the family establishment intends to expand to a third location in Victoria in the old Tire King at the intersection of North Navarro and East Red River streets next year.
The writer for the Texas magazine noted LaVaca BBQ’s “tender brisket, excellent house-made sausage and massive pork spareribs covered in a house-made glaze that contains Big Red syrup.” Other mouth-watering options mentioned in the write-up include “masa filled with brisket and pulled pork wrapped in a butcher-paper ‘husk’ and smoked until firm,” and the “smoked pork belly tacos served on blue corn tortillas.”
The in-house made sausage links come in two varieties — Serrano and Cheese, and Central Texas. Dino Beef Ribs are available only on Saturdays, and the Pork Belly Burnt Ends are served only on Saturdays and Sundays. If that’s not enough to keep customers coming back for more, the sides include jalapeno cream corn, potato salad, mango habanero coleslaw, brisket beans, BBQ gumbo and mac belly.
To feed the Crossroads’ fire, Texas Monthly’s honorable mention list also includes a couple of establishments that serve up brisket in our collective backyard. Kolacny’s Bar-B-Q House keeps those in Hallettsville well-fed while Coastal Que BBQ & More satisfies appetites in Matagorda.
And don’t forget the local joints that have made the magazine’s Best 50 list before. McMillan’s Bar-B-Q in Fannin and Mumphord’s Place BBQ in Victoria have spent time in the spotlight in past years for their savory servings of barbecue.
While those who live in Port Lavaca are certainly the envy of all in our area who appreciate tasty barbecue, the good news is that LaVaca BBQ plans to open another location in Victoria.
In the meantime, the barbecue joint is not too far from several communities — and road trips are fun. We encourage everyone to take full advantage of our most recent claim to barbecue fame.
Victoria Advocate
